Let’s get back to basics. Everyone knows that professional skincare therapists perform facials, and that facials feel really good, and are really relaxing. But they’re much, much more than that. They can help resolve many skin issues, from acne, to the signs of aging such as wrinkles and pigmentation, to sensitivity. In this way, they are a necessity, rather than a luxury.
So what, exactly, does a facial consist of? While they’re all different, depending upon the different protocols set by the different product’s manufacturer, they all consist of the same basic steps:
Cleanse
A thorough cleanse (sometimes a double cleanse) will gently rid the skin of surface debris and excess oils, as well as any makeup, to make it easier for the skin therapist to perform a thorough skin analysis. This is often done with the aid of steam, so that any sebum and dirt clogging the pores can be softened in preparation for extractions. Plus, it feels good!
Skin Analysis
With the aid of a magnifying loupe, Woods lamp or other even more sophisticated equipment, the skin therapist is able to get a better idea of the condition of the skin, its type (dry, normal, oily or combination) and condition (acne, prematurely aging, rosacea, pigmented, etc.), how the skin needs to be treated, what products to use, what recommendations to make for aftercare, and what treatments will be most beneficial going forward.
Exfoliation
An exfoliant can be either physical or chemical, or a combination of both. A physical exfoliant, or scrub, can be made of any of a number of materials such as ground corn cob, salt, almond meal or dozens of others, to physically rub dead cells of the surface of the skin.
A chemical exfoliant such as alpha or beta hydroxy acid (glycolic, salicilic, lactic and others) will dissolve the intercellular “glue” that binds the dead skin cells to the skin’s surface.
Enzymes, such as papain and bromelain, are also extremely effective, particularly on more sensitive skin, to digest the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, much like little “Pac Men.”
All of these methods help remove dead cells from the skin’s surface, which not only helps rid the skin of the dull, ashy look that can occur from the buildup of dead skin cells and restore a more youthful glow, but they also allow deeper penetration of any products that are used afterwards.
Of course, a deeper exfoliation can be achieved through other methods such as microdermabrasion or a chemical peel, but those are topics for another blog!
Extractions
Most people’s least favorite part of the facial, extractions utilize pressure on the sides of an impacted pore to remove impurities from the pores, allowing them to contract back to their normal size. Depending on a person’s pain tolerance, people find extractions to be anywhere from no big deal to “Ouch!” In some cases, however, this is the only way to get the skin truly clear, and the true example of the old adage that beauty is pain.
Remember too, that this is one of those things that is definitely better left to the professional. “Popping zits” at home can introduce bacteria into or even rupture the pore. So while it may not be pleasant, it is a crucial part of the facial process. And everything that follows extractions is good stuff (at least in my treatment room), so there is definitely a light at the end of the tunnel!
Massage
Definitely every client’s favorite part of the treatment! But far from just being a relaxing treat, there are many therapeutic benefits to a good facial massage, including relaxation of the facial muscles, stimulation of the blood, lymph circulation, improvement of overall metabolism and sluggish skin, improvement of muscle tone, reduction of puffiness and sinus congestion, and improvement of product absorption, among others.
So even the parts of the facial that feel good are done to make you feel and look better overall!
Mask
There are many different kinds of masks that perform many different functions.
Clay masks are help more oily, acneic skin types by drawing impurities to the surface of the skin as they try and tighten. They also absorb sebum and have healing and antiseptic properties on acne.
Other more creamy masks nourish and hydrate the skin with ingredients such as collagen, aloe, hyaluronic acid and antioxidants.
In addition, serums that help to hydrate, clear acne, decrease pigmentation, etc. can be used underneath masks so that they can work their magic while the mask is also at work — double the benefit!
And should you have an extra-nice esthetician, they may just find a creative way to stay busy during the ten minutes or so that the mask is setting. I like to give my clients a hand and arm massage, beginning with a hot stone application of the lotion (so it isn’t cold when it’s applied). Mmmmm.
Finishing Products
Now that the client is putty in the therapist’s hands, and their skin is in prime condition, the treatment is concluded with a few finishing products: a toner to even out the porosity of the skin, some more serum(s), an eye cream, moisturizer, and sun protection, all selected, of course, to meet the client’s individual needs (such as an oil-free moisturizer for acneic skin).
I personally love it when the client emerges from the treatment room with a glazed look in their eyes and, of course, glowing skin. That’s when I know I’ve done my job right. Relaxation, rejuvenation, and skin that is feeling and looking its absolute best.